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A Small Inn With a Foraging Chef

A colleague fondly recalled visiting the Catskills about 20 years ago: “My boyfriend at the time would bring me up to go trout fishing. He bought me some waders, so I’d perch on a rock in the river and read Vogue while he cast.” On a recent visit there, it seemed not much has changed: Cars were parked on the side of quaint country roads, abandoned, while their drivers fished the adjacent rivers.

Unlike the upstate New York towns situated along the Hudson River (and easily accessible by train from Manhattan), small-town destinations in the Catskill Mountains are a bit of a trek. It’s a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the hamlet of Roscoe, an unofficial fly-fishing capital popular for its trout-filled waters, including Willowemoc Creek, which also runs through the neighboring hamlet of Livingston Manor — a remote area with such strong Brooklyn vibes that there is a bar in Brooklyn named after it. And perhaps nowhere does this ring truer than at the DeBruce, a new inn in town.

The inn has had many names over the years, since it originally opened in the late 1800s. And its new owners have set it up as a culinary destination. The breakfast and dinner menus are built around what the chef and staff — and guests, as the mood strikes — have foraged from the grounds early each morning. Saturday night’s nine-course dinner features wild mountain ingredients, from earthy green fiddleheads to sweet-smelling flowers. And the cabinlike bar downstairs serves up local spirits and brews — just right for a nightcap to end a perfectly decadent day in the country. From $399 per night, — ALAINNA LEXIE BEDDIE


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Lounging in a white T-shirt — as depicted in a particularly poignant portrait by Alice Neel (the cover of the book “Painted Truths”), which has been on my mind since the artist’s show closed last month at David Zwirner — is the ideal state for the…

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